NZ: Outer Reef Bombs & Beachbreak Barrels

Today was a good day. An outer reef in town was working in the AM. It was deceptive, especially because nobody was out to measure it up. The wave in this pic was pushing double overhead, there were some death pits out there. And it was about 300 meters out. (The metric system is rubbing off on me... who are the idiots responsible for our damn imperial system of measurement?? Quick fact: the US is one of 3 countries in the WORLD who aren't on the metric system... fail!) Anywho... it was a long paddle out. I Don't think I've ever been that far out in the ocean, in surf that big, all by myself. Definitely sobering and a good way to clear the mind. I got a few bombs as well as some good exercise for my adrenaline gland. A 2 hour solo session and the second my foot hits the sand there were 3 guys paddling out and another 4 soon to be in the water, and the tide soon turned things to mush, ha ha... timing is indeed everything.

Then after lunch I pulled up to spiting barrels at this beachbreak with the sun out, orange clouds, giant rainbow and snow covered mountain backdrop... wish I had a camera in the water. Got some good tubes, complete with a few hoots from the shoulder... love that! Today was a good day.