"...All the above is, of course, a gross simplification. There are deeper reasons to travel - itches and tickles on the underbelly of the unconscious mind. We go where we need to go, and then try to figure out what we're doing there." - Jeff Greenwald "Shopping for Buddhas"
Catagories:
Words of Wisdom
My day: Wake up. No heater in house. See my breath out of the covers. Verbally abuse the weather. Look out window... Bluebirds. Fresh dump on the mount. Ice on van windows. Wetsuit wet and frozen. Lot's of layers, lots of Coffee. Pick up the Dutchman, head down coast.
Snow on side of road. Arrive at most popular break in Taranaki. Firing. Offshore. Nobody out. Are we in the twilight zone? 2 other dudes show up and paddle out with us. They leave after 30 minutes... why? I may never know. Dutchman and I hoot and hollar at each other for next 2 hours by ourselves. Arms are destroyed from previous day. We finally go in... a couple guys paddle out... take a few pics for the books. Drive straight to Burger Fuel for a Third Pounder with cheese please. Epic. Zombie for rest of day. Blog to stay awake.
Catagories:
New Zealand,
Surfing
Today was a good day. An outer reef in town was working in the AM. It was deceptive, especially because nobody was out to measure it up. The wave in this pic was pushing double overhead, there were some death pits out there. And it was about 300 meters out. (The metric system is rubbing off on me... who are the idiots responsible for our damn imperial system of measurement?? Quick fact: the US is one of 3 countries in the WORLD who aren't on the metric system... fail!) Anywho... it was a long paddle out. I Don't think I've ever been that far out in the ocean, in surf that big, all by myself. Definitely sobering and a good way to clear the mind. I got a few bombs as well as some good exercise for my adrenaline gland. A 2 hour solo session and the second my foot hits the sand there were 3 guys paddling out and another 4 soon to be in the water, and the tide soon turned things to mush, ha ha... timing is indeed everything.
Then after lunch I pulled up to spiting barrels at this beachbreak with the sun out, orange clouds, giant rainbow and snow covered mountain backdrop... wish I had a camera in the water. Got some good tubes, complete with a few hoots from the shoulder... love that! Today was a good day.
Catagories:
New Zealand,
Surfing
I finally got around to producing some personal work while being semi-settled in New Plymouth. These are painted on reclaimed New Zealand lumber and inspired by the the elements.
Catagories:
1-New Art
Fall is in the air... leaves are changing color, Mt. Taranaki is covered with snow, the nights are getting damn chilly and the water is cooling down... and there are fun waves to be had!
Catagories:
New Zealand,
Surfing
"Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." - Miriam Beard
Catagories:
Words of Wisdom
Big, fast and throwing! Just look at that beautiful thing! Got my best tube of the trip today... actually got a few good ones that had me hooting and mumbling to myself on the paddle back out. Made my week.. and it's only Monday! Looks like the swell is gonna continue to build throughout the week... Hell yes!!!
Oh... I got a new board (6'3" x 18 1/2" x 2 3/8") and it might be magical... a guy named Cain Aldridge(Go Figure... Cain & Abel) here in Taranaki shaped it. CSA Surfboards. It's been over 10 years since I've surfed anything but a Roberts since I used to airbrush for him back in the day... I kinda felt like a traitor but what are you gonna do? I needed a new board and I'm halfway around the world. Sorry buddy!
Catagories:
New Zealand,
Surfing
Picked a good day to hike Mt. Taranaki with Chloe and Cam. Sun shining, no cloud hovering over the tippy top and just a light (but chilly) Southern breeze. Could see the whole 'naki, from Waitara to Opunaki and beyond. My body is gonna pay tomorrow. Here's a collage of pics...
Mt. Taranaki, New Zealand. Click image to make bigger.
Catagories:
New Zealand
