4.13.2009

NZ: 55 Km Trek on the Northern Tip

Click for larger view. Pics by Dan and I.

I'll try to keep this short and sweet and in a format that keeps all the ADD folks happy...

Pick up English Dan at random backpackers in woods where he's been spearfishing and living in tent. Dan talks me into buying Hawaiian sling, mask, snorkel and fins with him.

Drive up to the Northland, leave The Van, Hitchhike to Spirits Bay with German kid who blows our first photo with finger over the lense.

Start the 55 Km hike along long beautiful empty beach. Sun out. Water blue. Backpack full of food for first night feast. Sand flies in full force... bastards. Lose sweatshirt somewhere along hike. Stupid.

Set up tent on beach. Get scared of high tide drenching us in our sleep. Move tent. Dig pointless trench. Hang all gear from overhanging tree. Treat creek water with disgusting chlorine tablets. Turn into 2 baboons trying to light fire. Finally start fire. Cook Balsamic Vinaigrette marinated steak, corn on the cob, giant potato and beans. Enjoy king sized meal. Sip Whiskey from newly purchased flask. High tide passes without incident, move tent back under tree.

See giant red and orange flaming ball of fire shoot across sky and break into smaller flaming pieces. Freak out for a while. Talk about it for next 4 days... possibly rest of life.

Insane Sunrise from tent. Coffee. Wish I had surfboard. Hike to Tapotupotu Bay. Take detour down possum trappers trail. Talk Dan out of "Just keep going and find out where we end up." Curse DOC for lack of good trail signage. Fix sign with sharpie. Make camp. Boil water for drinking. Ocean is warm. Spearfish my first fish. Dinner is served. Deliciousness! Question reasons why I have missed out on newly beloved sport for last 28 years. Sleep on sand again.

Coffee. Hike straight up. Hike straight down. Repeat for several hours. Laugh at the fact Kiwis don't believe in switch-back trails. Experience jaw-dropping vistas. Take pictures. Make it to Cape Rienga lighthouse. See Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet. Hot. Dry. Sunny. Sweaty. Meet couple from Ojai, CA of all places who throw us apple from pocket. Marvel at fact that 2 hours prior was telling Dan I would giving anything for juicy apple. Admire strange ways of universe.

Cross long empty beaches. Wish I had surfboard. Cross dunes. Find white snail fossils. Cross Twilight Bay Beach barefoot. Discover backpacking barefoot is moderately painful. Not a soul for miles. Set up camp. Dan tries to spear dinner at sunset. Too dark. Dan fails, almost gets swept out to sea, almost dies. Noodles and Miso Soup with mushrooms. Good fire. Finish last of whiskey. Dan dreams of babies peeing on him, I dream of fixing pavement around manhole covers. WTF?

Coffee. Hike to top of 90 Mile Beach. Long beach hike to Te Paki Stream. Hike up stream in mud and water. Admire giant sand dunes. Make it to civilization. Resist urge to pop giant blisters on feet. Eat giant ostrich burger and fries. Drink giant Steinlager. End of trek.

Drive to Taupo Bay. Have extreme paranoia about testing waterproofness of Olympus camera while spearfishing. Spearfish with camera. Dan gets 2. I get 1. Watch Dan pet and molest his ugly, gutted, pet Leatherjacket fish for too long. BBQ catch. Eat like kings. Drink whiskey. Absolutely destroy Dan in Dominos! Sleep like rocks.

Drive back to Auckland. Party until drop Dan off at airport at 3:00 AM. Drive 20km back to downtown to sleep. Get call from Dan: "Dude I left my sea shells in your car!" Call Dan a f-ing hippie. Agree to drive back to airport. Dan flies away to drink tea in Bahrain. The End.