Indo List

Words of Wisdom:

"The border means more than a customs house, a passport officer, a man with a gun. Over there everything is going to be different; life is never going to be quite the same again after your passport has been stamped." - Graham Greene

Mas Olas...

Some waves from last week
Dropping behind the peak
Green and glassy in the sun
Waaaay too much fucking fun!

NZ Flashbacks...

Been looking through some pics from New Zealand... this one stood out. What a day! Firing!! Click to make it big and check out the little guy on that inside left, he was the only guy out. Can you imagine if this was anywhere in So Cal??? There would be at least 50 guys on that peak... gettin' all mad at each other! I miss you NZ.

WET...

Maaaaaan, it's like getting to pee after sitting through a long, long movie. Finally got to dip a brush into paint again. It's been far too long. There's been a lot going on in my sketch books over the last year, inspirations long forgotten, ideas that once got me really excited and don't anymore and others that still wet my whistle... Plenty of material to get the wheels turning again. I'm currently putting together a bunch of small pieces (11"x11" with ply frame, like THESE) and will have them all available in MY STORE within the next few weeks for an unbeatable price... hopefully some of you will see one you like and be so kind to contribute to my Indo Tube Searching Fund (See previous post)

HELLO INDO!

Pretty damn excited about this one. Come March 29th, I'm gonna spend 2 months getting cozy inside of some warm early season Indo tubes. Matlock gets there a day before I do and after a few nights in Bali it'll be time to go feral on some other islands and see what we can find... Operation: GET SHACKED! Got 2 new Roberts boards on order, shaving the head, rehabbing the shoulder, pumping some iron and stuffing my face with all the food I can... no computer, no phone, no bullshit... jungle barrels we're coming to find you!!

Words of Wisdom:

"You never leave where you are until you decide where you'd rather be." - Unknown

A warm welcome home from Mr. Pacific Ocean

Well... the welcome is warm, but the water is not! Brrrr. It's always good to come home to waves when you've been gone, Brown and I got Little Rincon real good the other day, haven't surfed it like that in years. There really is no place like home, you know which spots to check on which swells, how the tide and wind will affect it, which rocks to jump off, where to park, where the trail is etc... it's comfortable, however, with a new spot, being uncomfortable is exactly why it's so exciting to travel around the world to find crazy waves you've never surfed. There's a desire to want to get to know how a new break works, in all conditions, so that you can feel at home.